Thanks for all your replies! I hadn't checked this forum in a while, and suddenly lots of responses!
Since I made this post, I've signed up for a distance learning course at the Goethe Institut in teaching DaF, which I hope to get the course materials for in a couple weeks. Assuming they accept my undergrad degree in chem/German as valid... (I have this terror that they won't, because, as most of y'all point out, German standards are *really* strict.) That only requires C1 level
I keep changing my mind about whether I want to apply to grad school. Multiple times a day. It's nerve-wracking... I don't *need* a PhD to teach DaF. But it would get me teaching experience, and that's the one thing I can't figure out how to acquire! Language schools want experienced teachers, and a certificate with a practicum is a credential, not experience. So argh. (I can look at local community colleges, but they're not hiring German teachers right now.) Do any of you have suggestions for how to get teaching experience?
Ideally, I want to live in Berlin, and I could teach German at a VHS (after I get experience here, see above). If I had a PhD, I could teach a literature class (they offer some) as well as German classes. Honestly, I'd be happy being a tour guide there, because I just want to tell everyone about the cool stuff there. I'm also a writer (SF/F), but that isn't making me any money yet.
Other things I've considered include the Middlebury MA in Berlin, but that's extremely expensive, and financial aid is limited. (Also, I have aging cats and a house and a husband...) One option I'm considering is not applying to anything yet, teaching a while, saving some money, and applying to Middlebury once I have fewer cats. (I lost one last summer, quite suddenly, and I wouldn't be able to handle not being able to say goodbye.)
There's one professor at my top-choice school who researches Turkish-German studies (mainly literature), as well as queer studies, marginal voices, and that sort of thing. Do you think I could just email her, introduce myself, and ask "so, this is the research area I'm interested in, would that be an appropriate topic?" I don't want to shoot myself in the foot. (I think a thesis on Turkish-German integration in football culture would be fun, and probably quite novel... or homophobia in football culture, quite a hot topic at the moment. At UNC, there's an option to do a cultural studies certificate, which is 5 courses, 4 of your choosing. It's through the comm department.)
But a PhD is a LOT of work, a lot of stress, and a lot of time, and while I'd love to be immersed in German stuff again, I don't know that I *need* to. So I can't decide what to do.