smellie:
The best response I've gotten from any school was definitely from UNC. Their staff has been incredibly friendly, and they've been really prompt about answering my questions and getting information I request. The professor I've been in contact with is great. They're getting two new professors this fall who I'd heartily recommend to anyone. I know UNC is supposed to be a good school in general--if anyone else has better information or impressions of the art history dept, I'd be really interested to hear them.
Also, if you call and ask, someone might be able to tell you about funding. I spoke to my prospective adviser over the weekend, and although it seems things haven't been finalized, she was able to give me some really good information.
I can tell you there's no way I'm stepping foot in NYC after the last couple pages, haha.