Oh, whoops. You're right. You apply directly to the MA, but with the expectation that you'll continue onto the PhD.
I definitely spend a lot of time on faculty pages, especially of the younger faculty members whom I haven't come across in my reading. I also appreciate blatant teaching opportunities: first years TA a lecture course, have a recitation, etc. I'm trying to get as much teaching experience as I can, so vague statements like: "We try to fund most of our students through fellowships or teaching assistantships," are a bit offputting.
Has anyone heard anything about the Tulane program? I certainly wouldn't mind spending two years in Louisiana, and they do fund, but, because it's run concurrently with a 4+1 BA-to-MA program and accepts students with only one year (or possibly no years!) of a second language, I fear it won't be very strenuous.