Washington, DC and Maryland suburbs

[starfish]

Hi there,

I think I'm probably going to end up at George Mason this coming year. My boyfriend and I will be moving together, and he anticipates having a full-time job and making a decent income. I anticipate being a starving student.

The basics are important to us (safe neighborhood, reasonably convenient to school/work, etc.), but we'd also like to live in a neighborhood/area that has a good character to it. Hopefully somewhere that has some interesting architecture, small stores, coffee houses and restaurants, maybe even a music scene? I think we'd really enjoy this more than a suburb of generic chain restaurants and identical apartments lined with strip malls.

We're moving from Hawaii, and probably won't have much opportunity to visit before we move. Any suggestions near the George Mason area that sound a little like what I've described?

Thanks!

[firecolon]

Hi there,

I think I'm probably going to end up at George Mason this coming year. My boyfriend and I will be moving together, and he anticipates having a full-time job and making a decent income. I anticipate being a starving student.

The basics are important to us (safe neighborhood, reasonably convenient to school/work, etc.), but we'd also like to live in a neighborhood/area that has a good character to it. Hopefully somewhere that has some interesting architecture, small stores, coffee houses and restaurants, maybe even a music scene? I think we'd really enjoy this more than a suburb of generic chain restaurants and identical apartments lined with strip malls.

We're moving from Hawaii, and probably won't have much opportunity to visit before we move. Any suggestions near the George Mason area that sound a little like what I've described?

Thanks!

I am finishing an undergraduate degree at George Mason University and I will be leaving the area in May after having lived here since 1992. I can answer your questions and more.

I am glad that you will be living with your boyfriend and that he will be paid well. The cost of living in Fairfax is high, but about the same as Hawaii. I would not recommend George Mason to students living by themselves because they would starve to death on such a small income.

Unfortunately, you will not find a neighborhood with good character (like you asked for) anywhere close to the George Mason campus. The traffic is so terrible that commuting a farther distance is not desirable either. Vienna comes the closest to matching your description. Another suggestion is Reston, if you're willing to drive a little bit farther. Housing is much cheaper farther away if you decide that you want to commute through painful traffic an hour or more, so exurbs such as Bristow or Fredericksburg could be a suitable option if you can afford the commute. I suggest avoiding anywhere inside the beltway as they are riddled with crime, especially Annandale, Manassas, Springfield, Mount Vernon, Falls Church, Arlington, Alexandria, Washington DC, or anywhere in Maryland. Places such as Fairfax Station, Burke, Centreville, Chantilly, Herndon, Great Falls, Langley, Sterling, or Leesburg are more tolerable places to live, but they match your description of a stereotypical suburb (boring houses, chain restaurants, no history, no music scene, etc). I'm just going to recommend Vienna, but even Vienna isn't perfect for you.

Several warnings before you move: Public transportation is horribly unreliable so I don't recommend trying to use any of them. The traffic is far worse than Hawaii, in fact it's the worst traffic in the country outside of California. MS-13 and other gangs are exploiting the diverse suburbs and "sanctuary cities" to expand their violent gangs (especially closer to inside the beltway). The food is overall lousy. The housing crunch is expected to hit hard here (house prices have just recently peaking and are beginning to fall). Customer service is foreign to people around here because the people are lazy (many of them can't even speak English, and they have to speak English for their jobs). I don't recommend cable companies since they are as bad as it gets - so get a satellite dish if you want a TV. Finally, Northern Virginia is a really pain and it gets old very fast, so make sure that you don't get yourselves obligated to live there for the rest of your lives or else you will regret it later.

I suggest that you ask some other people as well because some of what I said is a bit opinionated (but opinionated or not, it's true). Some people have different priorities. George Mason is actually a very good school and is strong in research and academics. You will pay less for car insurance and people around here generally get paid large salaries. Good luck to you and your boyfriend.

[erin85]

Any recommendations on areas of DC/Maryland/VA to live in for a Georgetown student that aren't super pricey? I'd need somewhere safe, and close to a metro. Right next to GT is not needed, since they offer a shuttle from the rosslyn and dupont metro stations.

I've been out to DC, and saw some nice areas, but the more recommendations I have (especially from people in that city now) the better...

Thanks!

-Erin

[Sejla]

Sorry, no answer to the question above - I've got my own question.

I will be a full-time MA student doing a graduate assitantship at a university in DC. I can kind of weigh the issues of distance, price, transport myself, but I'm wondering if there are any tax / other less obvious advantages to living in DC proper as opposed to Virginia or Maryland?

There is no state income tax in DC? It seems like this is pretty negligible, but I guess over time could add up. I will find out at some point I'm sure, but I don't believe my assistantship is considered part of my financial aid.

This seems like a dorky question, I know, but I'll be a poor grad student so if anyone has insight on it, do let me know.

[firecolon]

Any recommendations on areas of DC/Maryland/VA to live in for a Georgetown student that aren't super pricey? I'd need somewhere safe, and close to a metro. Right next to GT is not needed, since they offer a shuttle from the rosslyn and dupont metro stations.

I recommend Vienna. Maryland is loaded with crime, and the farther you are from Washington the better. Vienna is the farthest metro stop in Virginia and a relatively nice neighborhood with "cheaper" housing (still a rip-off) and less taxes.

I am currently finishing an undergrad degree at George Mason and I plan to leave the area next month.

[silencio1982]

Any recommendations on areas of DC/Maryland/VA to live in for a Georgetown student that aren't super pricey? I'd need somewhere safe, and close to a metro. Right next to GT is not needed, since they offer a shuttle from the rosslyn and dupont metro stations.

I've been out to DC, and saw some nice areas, but the more recommendations I have (especially from people in that city now) the better...

Thanks!

-Erin

my husband is applying for a job in the georgetown neighborhood so i am considering this question as well. (though, if he gets a job in baltimore we are planning to live there since that's where i will be attending school.) but, if we do end up in DC we'll consider takoma park and silver spring. not bargain prices but cheaper than rosslyn/georgetown area, it seems.

[silencio1982]

anyone know anything about Frederick, MD? there may be a good job opportunity for my husband there.

[yticnineb]

Something I've learned from living in DC is that if you're willing to live a 10-15 minute walk from a Metro station, you'll get a lot more apartment for your money. Sometimes this means living in sort of up-and-coming neighborhoods (try the Atlas District, for example, or east of the Columbia Heights station). If that's not your preference (understandable, especially if you expect to be coming home late at night) areas like the far reaches of Connecticut Avenue are great. I live across the street from one of the city's best bookstores and have a beautiful, vintage apartment at a good price. It's a 12 minute walk to the Metro and I'm about half a mile from the closest supermarket, but the neighborhood is quiet, leafy, and very very safe. Also, most places not serviced by Metro are on major bus routes. The bus is unpredictable, but you can figure it out-- and major routes run constantly at busy times of day. Finally, if you're at all inclined toward bicycling, DC life is perfect. It's so easy to just hop on your bike to get places, and the weather is lovely much of the year. I am going to miss DC so much. This is such a beautiful city. Feel free to ask questions!

Silencio, commuting from Frederick is a pain, but you can do it. Many people do, though I'd recommend using the commuter train rather than driving, unless you're coming into the city off rush hour. I haven't been to Frederick in a long time, but I understand that it's a growing exurb with reasonable housing and an increasingly-cosmopolitan atmosphere.

[PolitoJunkie]

Soo, no one has commented much on actually living in DC but I figure it's still worth asking... Can I find a place within reasonable place near American/ GW? Like $800-1000 per month or do I have to live outside the city? Ideally I'd like to be relatively safe also. Any suggestions?

[yticnineb]

Soo, no one has commented much on actually living in DC but I figure it's still worth asking... Can I find a place within reasonable place near American/ GW? Like $800-1000 per month or do I have to live outside the city? Ideally I'd like to be relatively safe also. Any suggestions?

You'll have better luck finding something in this range near American, I think, but I know there are a couple places downtown near GW with decent studios for about $1000. Are you talking about a one-bedroom apartment? Sharing a house, you can definitely pick up something nice for around $800.

[silencio1982]

Silencio, commuting from Frederick is a pain, but you can do it. Many people do, though I'd recommend using the commuter train rather than driving, unless you're coming into the city off rush hour. I haven't been to Frederick in a long time, but I understand that it's a growing exurb with reasonable housing and an increasingly-cosmopolitan atmosphere.

thanks yticnineb. i will actually be commuting to baltimore, so the train won't be an option-- hopefully the traffic is not as bad to baltimore. but if my husband gets this job in frederick, we would have free housing- so it would be worth a longer commute for me. it seems like it would be a pretty nice place to live, actually.

[polisciphd]

You'll have better luck finding something in this range near American, I think, but I know there are a couple places downtown near GW with decent studios for about $1000. Are you talking about a one-bedroom apartment? Sharing a house, you can definitely pick up something nice for around $800.

I second that. You can get some very nice studio apartments on the north end of the red line (by AU). There are not as many housing options near GW, foggy bottom is pretty much the campus and gov. buildings. However, if you live by a metro, particularly the orange and blue which both go to foggy bottom, anywhere in D.C. is doable, or northern virginia (I love the ballston area). I particularly enjoyed living on Capitol Hill, near the eastern market metro station. We had a 700 sq foot 1 bdrm apt. for $1100 a month.

[PolitoJunkie]

Quote

You'll have better luck finding something in this range near American, I think, but I know there are a couple places downtown near GW with decent studios for about $1000. Are you talking about a one-bedroom apartment? Sharing a house, you can definitely pick up something nice for around $800.

Preferably a one bedroom, but hey I guess I can suck it up and get roommates as well.... but I won't like it lol

 

tidefan said:

I second that. You can get some very nice studio apartments on the north end of the red line (by AU). There are not as many housing options near GW, foggy bottom is pretty much the campus and gov. buildings. However, if you live by a metro, particularly the orange and blue which both go to foggy bottom, anywhere in D.C. is doable, or northern virginia (I love the ballston area). I particularly enjoyed living on Capitol Hill, near the eastern market metro station. We had a 700 sq foot 1 bdrm apt. for $1100 a month.

I was considering Capitol Hill, but I wasn't sure about the distance, etc....good to know thanks=) I really want to live in the city if I can afford it.

[yticnineb]

If you really want a one-bedroom (or big studio) in the city for around 1000, look into "English basements," as well-- basement levels of row houses with separate entrance and kitchen/bath. Some of these are really quite nice, especially if the house has been recently renovated. Off Capitol Hill a bit, there's Eastern Market and Potomac Avenue-- both of these are stops along the blue/orange Metro line, both residential neighborhoods that might be a little cheaper than the red line corridor. Eastern Market is a wonderful neighborhood, with lots of coffeeshops, a great big dusty used bookstore, its famous eponymous market, some good restaurants, lots of trees. Potomac Avenue, the next area down, requires some street smarts, though gentrification starting up and there's an organic market going in, I think. These are good options if you're at GW and want to commute via Metro.

If you'll be at American, maybe look for something in Chevy Chase/DC, or whatever the neighborhood is called way north on Connecticut, past the Van Ness stop. That area is off the Metro, but only like a 10-minute bike ride to campus. Bethesda is just as expensive as DC, so might as well stay in the city.

If you're going to bike-commute to either, Columbia Heights is great; if you look a few blocks east of the metro stop, you can find some decent prices. Feel free to post/PM for more info. Craigslist is how I found both of my apartments, and I recommend using it, at least as a starting-point.

DC is great! So beautiful! I am not so psyched about leaving this city for New Haven.

[PolitoJunkie]

yticnineb said:

If you really want a one-bedroom (or big studio) in the city for around 1000, look into "English basements," as well-- basement levels of row houses with separate entrance and kitchen/bath. Some of these are really quite nice, especially if the house has been recently renovated. Off Capitol Hill a bit, there's Eastern Market and Potomac Avenue-- both of these are stops along the blue/orange Metro line, both residential neighborhoods that might be a little cheaper than the red line corridor. Eastern Market is a wonderful neighborhood, with lots of coffeeshops, a great big dusty used bookstore, its famous eponymous market, some good restaurants, lots of trees. Potomac Avenue, the next area down, requires some street smarts, though gentrification starting up and there's an organic market going in, I think. These are good options if you're at GW and want to commute via Metro.

If you'll be at American, maybe look for something in Chevy Chase/DC, or whatever the neighborhood is called way north on Connecticut, past the Van Ness stop. That area is off the Metro, but only like a 10-minute bike ride to campus. Bethesda is just as expensive as DC, so might as well stay in the city.

If you're going to bike-commute to either, Columbia Heights is great; if you look a few blocks east of the metro stop, you can find some decent prices. Feel free to post/PM for more info. Craigslist is how I found both of my apartments, and I recommend using it, at least as a starting-point.

DC is great! So beautiful! I am not so psyched about leaving this city for New Haven.

Thanks, between your input and my visit (finally) I'm feeling more confident that I will like DC. I was considering both GW and American but I just saw American and really loved it. I may still take you up on your offer for more info though so thanks again!

 

So, I'm trying to narrow down some areas in the NW that are farther east but still ok. Petworth, 16th Street Heights, Brookland, Le Droit/Bloomingdale, Brightwood, Shaw/ Mt. Vernon, Crestwoods, Mount Pleasant, Kalorama, Palisades?? I'm sorry to name pretty much the entire side BUT I'm trying to find out why these places have more reasonable prices for pretty nice stuff. Anyways, any commets are helpful.

Thanks!!

[geigwm6]

What is the best way to purchase a metro ticket? I will be using it everyday and was not sure whether it was discounted if you purchased like a two month pass...

[polisciphd]

By a smarttrip card, available to purchase at many of the metro stations or at metrocenter. you can use your debit/credit card to put money on the card in increments. if you put $100 on the card, you get extra money for free. Some employers also offer flex benefits, so that money for metro is taken out of your paycheck pre-tax. See if your school offers this.

[unknownscholar]

hey guys. I too will be moving to DC. And I'm looking for a place in either NW DC (GU/Glover Park/LeDroit Park/Dupont Circle) or Arlington/McLean, VA.

I'll be looking to share for about 4 years, so if anyone is interested, pm me.

Haven't found a place yet by the way, but will be going up for a visit next friday.

Update: already found a place. right across the street from GU: utilities included, rent stabilized for 4 years, efficiency apt.

Good Luck to everyone else!

[erin85]

For those of you familiar with DC housing:

Is going to the DC area the week of July 20th (possibly extending the trip to the following week if needed), going to give me enough time to find housing that I can move into on or around August 15th?

Or should I go earlier?

Craigslist has a million "move in now" posts, so it seems it should, but I need some outside advice, I don't want to get stuck with either nothing, or something awful...

FYI I plan to look in the ballston, rosslyn, alexandria areas, and likely a few more places...

[unknownscholar]

I set up an appointment with about 8 places and saw them all in one day and was able to make a decision immediately after. I found them all on craigslist. I don't think it will take you beyond a day or 2 to decide what you want.

Depending on what you want, I'd be sure to make a decision on that trip or immediately after because you'll be met with the hassle of trying to get a place with the rest of the influx of students who are living off campus. But if you wait a little later, you may be able to find a good place from the many that will be become vacant after the summer intern season is over.

If you want the people on CL to keep you in mind (given that you've begun your search much earlier than your move), be sure to stay in touch with them and/or offer something to sweeten the pot, like renting long term (over a year). This works well for many young professionals who are looking for a tenant because they don't have to worry about going through the process of finding a roommate all over again in another year.

Also, beware of all the scammers on the DMV craigslist. If they are out of the country, it's a scam!

[altheakim]

Takoma Park, or "Granola Park" as some locals call it now, was the first planned suburban community of Washington, DC. Founded in 1883, by Benjamin Franklin Gilbert, Takoma Park was developed along a branch of the B & O railroad. It was originally conceived as a "summer resort" area, as a healthful clean-water alternative to Washington, DC's malarial swamps. With a population of 18,000 it rests along the upper northeast boundary of D.C. and strattles Montgomery and Prince Georges Counties in Maryland.

-----------------------------

althea

Washington Drug Addiction

[ebee]

I have lived and worked in the DC area for 3 years now, so I thought I'd trow my 2 cents in....

When I first came up I stayed with a family friend in Springfield, VA and I worked in Alexandria. Springfield = lots of traffic and lots of families.

After a couple months I moved to Clarendon (an area of Arlington, VA which is the county immediately west of DC, across the Potomac). I shared a large 2 bedroom, 1 bath apt for $850 ($1700 total) per month. By the time I moved out 2 years later the rent had gone up to 900-950 per person (luckily my rent never changed though ) Clarendon/Courthouse/Rosslyn/Ballston/Virginia Square are all nice parts of Arlington and are all very convenient to the city. You can hop on the Orange line and be at GWU within 10-15 minutes max. These are also nice neighborhoods if you want the conveniences of the city and the suburbs. All of the areas can be quite pricey though if you are looking to live in a highrise apt/condo building or if you want to be right on top of the metro. I lived in house that had been converted into 3 apts, we had driveway parking, and my landlord was awesome. I believe I was about a half mile from the Clarendon metro. If you're interested in Arlington, be sure to check out Craigslist, and respond to ads ASAP as it's a pretty popular area. You can get by without a car in these parts of Arlington, but I always had one.

Last summer I moved in to the city to the Capitol Hill/Eastern Market area. I now pay just over $1000/month to split a 2 bedroom, 1 bath in a rowhouse. The space is smaller than my place in Arlington, but we have a small fenced backyard/patio area. Street parking in DC can be a nightmare sometimes, but luckily my place is across from a small condo building w/ its own parking lot. I was a little worried about living in Capitol Hill at first - the surrounding areas are still undergoing the whole "gentrification" process - but now I absolutely love it. You can get by in Capitol Hill pretty easily without a car, but I keep mine so I can drive to my parents house, etc when I want to. (Also so I can drive to the grocery store when it's cold out ) If you're in Cap Hill you're using South Capitol, Eastern Market, or Potomac Ave metros. All of these are on the blue and orange lines which are very convenient.

If anyone has any questions about the area I'd be glad to try to help answer them

[Yem2808]

i am a first-year phd student at the university of maryland. if you are planning on coming here, i would suggest you begin your housing search now - it's going to be a nightmare.

i live in an apartment which is about a 20 minute walk away from campus. it is OLD, i can hear everything my downstairs neighbors say, and has zero amenities. on the other hand, and you can walk to the metro, which in itself makes it worth it. i pay 700 for half of a 2-bedroom. from what ive seen, most of the housing in college park is pretty much the same way -- decrepit, overpriced, and somewhat sketchy (my neighbor's apartment was broken into). crime, such as armed robbery, is rampant here. i do like being able to walk to class and to college park's tiny downtown. most grad students ive met live in silver spring (outside the downtown area) or certain areas of greenbelt, where the prices are about the same but it is safer and nicer. i might be moving out there for next year. the downside to that is that you may or may not be close to public transit, and driving to campus can apparently be a headache in traffic.

the cities immediately outside of college park such as hyattsville and adelphi have a bad reputation. i can't say much about them as i haven't experienced them firsthand.

if you can afford it, live in dowtown silver spring or dc proper. most grad students, however, cannot afford it.

also -- you need a car here. even if youre by a metro station, it doesnt go very many places in the 'burbs and the buses are notoriously unreliable (and stop running after a certain time). for getting around campus and college park, the campus buses are pretty good.

anything else, i'd be glad to help

[miratrix]

I'd love to start searching now, but I haven't gotten an admissions decision A friend who lives in DC says a shared small apartment in DC proper or Takoma Park would be affordable and pleasant, but do you really need a car to commute from either of those places to College Park?

[Yem2808]

DC proper -- you may not need a car depending on where you live. and if you do find a small affordable apartment in a safe DC area PLEASE let me know where, lol.

takoma park -- there is one metro station in takoma park so if you live near there, you could potentially take that to campus although you'd have to switch lines. i know a couple people who live in takoma park and they have cars. it just makes it a lot easier to get to the grocery store, run errands, etc. but YMMV, of course

i hope you get good news from maryland soon!