Pittsburgh, PA

[Hope. Feathers. Insanity.]

I was just accepted at CMU, and I was looking at the Squirrel Hill area and schools. I have 2 grade school age children.

Does anyone have children at Minadeo? What has your experience been?

[user_name]

what are the cheap, yet-to-be-gentrified areas that only somewhat sketchy? (by the railyard, preferred)

what are food options like?

how is the music scene?

[Another Sisyphus]

For user_name,

It sounds like you want to avoid Shadyside and Squirrel Hill which happen to border CMU on the North and West. If you’re looking for a cheap place to get your bike stolen, drink 40’s on the sidewalk, and mix with non-student, low-income locals with names like “T,” South Oakland is a lovely area, especially south of the Blvd of the Allies. The rest of Oakland is less sketchy, predominantly students, a little more pricey, but not yet gentrified. North Oakland is the only part closer to CMU than it is to Pitt, but it all depends on what your transportation options are. Bloomfield and Lawrenceville are also options. Getting to CMU will require wheels of some sort though. These places are a little more adult-like, nowhere near the ruckus that Oakland is, but also less exciting and some complain about the overabundance of hipsters. Pittsburgh’s public transit is known for sucking (when it does exist) and I would not describe it as bike friendly, but there are many who do make these options work.

Food options are plenty. Shadyside, Squirrel Hill, Craig Street, and Oakland have great places to eat. There are too many to name, but Primanti’s is clearly the most important.

I don’t know how to accurately judge a music scene, but there is much merriment to be had. If you’re into it, there are many buskers to join on nice days: drummers on porches, travelling banjo players, guitarists, bassists, and trombone players in the park. Several bars with open mic night/jam nights. There are jam-packed house shows with rather friendly people. Touring acts usually come to Mr. Small’s in Millvale (a suburb across the river), a few different venues in the South Side, Heinz Field/Stage AE (big name acts) on the North Side, or in the Strip District there’s Altar Bar and 31^st Street Pub.

Congratulations on your acceptances. I hope that helps.

[muhammadaffawn]

Hi everyone!

I have been accepted into the CMU Chemistry Graduate program, with funding. I am an international student, and it will be the first time for me to be in the US. Any guidance/suggestion regrading housing and living in pittsburgh, since CMU does not offer housing to graduate students. Which one is more preferable for an international student: homestay, or renting out an apartment/house.

[virion]

@muhammadaffawn I'm moving to Pittsburgh this fall and the only advice I've heard is: avoid Mozart Management. Other than that, I'm not sure, so far regent square rentals seems a bit more professional. Have you tried padmapper.com? I've been told that Squirrel Hill is a nice area to live in, as is Shady Side, though the latter is a little pricier and trendier.

Edited March 11, 2012 by virion

[estargrl88]

Julianne Pigoon,

I'm not super familiar with all the suburbs, but Edgewood and Swissvale have always seemed like nice places. They're right over the city limits from Regent Square and Squirrel Hill and have the same feel as these neighborhoods. I would say the Squirrel Hill has more families than Shadyside, but they're both nice places to live in. In terms of the Pittsburgh public schools, it's really a hit or miss. If you go the neighborhood school route, then it's best to live in a place like Squirrel Hill, Regent Square, or Point Breeze. I think that Highland Park might also have a good elementary school, but above that not so much. However, the magnet programs, like international studies or the arts, can also be a good route, especially if you choose to live somewhere where the neighborhood schools may not be as good. The one charter school I'm familiar with is the Environmental Charter school, which seems to be a nice place. I'm not sure if they've expanded into middle school yet though.

Hope Feathers Insanity,

while I don't have direct experience with the education at Minadeo, I've known a lot of nice kids who have gone there, and I believe it's supposed to be good.

[muhammadaffawn]

@muhammadaffawn I'm moving to Pittsburgh this fall and the only advice I've heard is: avoid Mozart Management. Other than that, I'm not sure, so far regent square rentals seems a bit more professional. Have you tried padmapper.com? I've been told that Squirrel Hill is a nice area to live in, as is Shady Side, though the latter is a little pricier and trendier.

What do you say about apartments in North Oakland?

[virion]

On 3/11/2012 at 8:56 AM, muhammadaffawn said:

What do you say about apartments in North Oakland?

Well, I'm going to U Pitt. During my visit, most of the grad students I spoke to said they like living just a little bit farther from the university as there are a lot of undergrads in Oakland. Though North Oakland was not made out to be nearly as bad as South. Some do live there, and the only positive thing they had to say about it is that it's close and cheap. If you want to be close to CMU I would look at Squirrel Hill. That way you're close and actually in a nice place to live.

I think I might be moving to Highland Park. From what I gather it's nice, though quiet (if I'm hanging out with other grad students, will likely be traveling to their neighborhoods). But it's inexpensive, a block from a frequent bus line, and not too far out in general. Basically I was looking for apartments in Friendship, as they're cheaper than Shady Side, and just worked my way up north a bit farther.

Edited March 11, 2012 by virion

[casey52990]

Can anyone tell me about the Point Breeze North area? From what I've read it sounds like a good area; safe as long as I'm not stupid about it... I found a great apartment on Penn Ave (it's a busy street but I'll deal) and I'm ready to sign the papers, just worried about the location. I'm going to Chatham next year for their Masters of Arts in Food Studies program, so my journey to school everyday wouldn't be quite as far as say Pitt or CMU... Thanks!!

[estargrl88]

I would say that you're probably fine on Penn Ave. if safety's your concern. Just don't venture off too far in the direction of Homewood. Regular Point Breeze is a really nice neighborhood. If anything, I don't think there's a very close grocery store and other stores in general, but you should be right on a bus line so it's not too much of a trek.

[fosgfp]

what are the cheap, yet-to-be-gentrified areas that only somewhat sketchy? (by the railyard, preferred)

what are food options like?

how is the music scene?

Check out Lawrenceville or Bloomfield, pretty cheap and a good mix of people.

Music scene is pretty mediocre-- lots of local acts but you'll rarely (if ever) see a 'bigger name indie' act come through (for instance, I'm attending CMU now and I road tripped to DC to see Belle and Sebastian)

[veronica41]

I have been accepted to CMU master in CS this coming fall. I'm an International student. I prefer to share a 2 br apartment with someone else. My budget is $600-700. So should I go to see the apartments in person before I settle anything with the landlord? Would it be too late if I go to Pittsburgh looking for an apartment in August? How can I find a flatmate? Are there any websites for this?

[contiguous]

If you're looking for an apartment in Oakland, it might be a little late. Anywhere else, you're probably fine. U Pitt has an office of off-campus living that coordinates students looking for roommates, perhaps CMU has the same?

for user_name, definitely look into Bloomfield and Lawrenceville. Brillobox hosts on the rise indie groups, and there is a whole host of experimental/avant-garde music gigs every weekend as well as shows at local bars.

[UrbanWonk]

Hey all, I'm a first year PhD student at CMU, so I've lived in PGH the better part of a year. I live in Shadyside--while it's pricier, there's lots to do but it still has a residential feel. For the poster looking for a not-yet-gentrified area, I definitely second the recommendation of Lawrenceville--I don't promise that it won't be gentrified in about 5 years, but there's an awesome vibe right now and though it's on the way up, prices haven't caught up yet.

I haven't heard much about Mozart, but I've heard to avoid Lobos at all costs. I'm renting from C.J. Greve and have had a great experience with them--really responsive maintenance, and they were flexible with a couple of changes I wanted in the lease.

For finding a flatmate, I'd talk to other people in your program--that's probably your best bet. If you're sharing with someone else it will be quite easy for you to find a place only paying 600...but apartments tend to go quickly. I waited until June and that was almost too long (I wanted an 8/1 move-in), so I'd at least start researching some places and setting up appointments.

About Highland Park--it's a nice, safe, family-friendly area, and the 71B is quite convenient (although bus services /may/ be getting reduced in the fall), but there's not a lot over there other than Bryant St. That said, there are some great restaurants on Bryant St. and if you think you'll be happy to travel elsewhere for nightlife, go for it.

For all--Pitt's housing website is pretty darn good. I definitely recommend checking it out.

[KTan]

hey all, Has anyone any experience of Penn Commons, the residence hall at Penn Avenue? I am an international student and I wanted to go and live in a residence hall for the first few months till I get my bearings and understand the area. They have a great deal for graduate students that works out very well in terms of space and cost. but if someone has had a ghastly experience then i suppose i would want to know about it before i make any final decision.

[mfapittsburgh]

I have the same question about the cost of living. I have been admitted gor a masters program at CMU with full tuition but no stipend and I was wondering how much it would cost if I could live near the school (i would have no car) with a room mate and eating in most of the time. In other words, what would be the minimum amount I would need to survive in Pittsburgh. Any help much appreciated!

[Spore]

mfapittsburgh,

My husband and I are disussing your question.

A 2 bedroom in Squirrel Hill should run about 900-1200

Food will probably be what it is for you right now.

Utilities will be about 75 at the highest (summer with a/c). Some rents include utilities.

Your CMU ID card gets you free transport on PGH's buses.

BTW, I live in Shadyside (since November 2011), another popular location for CMU students.

I will be attending CMU in Fall 2012

[vautrin]

I went to CMU for undergrad. Pittsburgh is a really great city - just put a little space between yourself and Oakland. I have never felt unsafe living here and the city is super nice - somewhat urban but still small enough to know your neighbors.

I lived a few different places when I was there, all about a 15 min bus ride or bike ride away from CMU, and the rent ranged between $180 and $240 a month (the cheaper rent was for a room in a shared flat and the more expensive was for half of an entire house).

In terms of the vegetarian question - I'm vegan and survived there OK but I mostly cook for myself. There definitely is vegetarian food available on CMU's campus (they have one totally vegetarian campus food provider there, and options at most places, as well as food carts with veggie options) but unfortunately I can't say any of it's particularly delicious or well-priced. I usually brought food with me or ran over to Kiva Han on Craig St for a curry wrap if I needed lunch but unfortunately they were just run out of business by Starbucks . you'll definitely survive, though, and you should visit Zenith on the South Side for brunch some Sunday.

Edited April 8, 2012 by vautrin

[Bat_mipt]

Hello everyone,

I am going to study in CMU this Fall. While looking for an apartment (1 bedroom or studio) in Pittsburgh, I've noticed that most of them do not have any furniture in living rooms and badrooms. Is it ok? How do students deal with it? Do they buy their own furniture ? And what do they do with it after their graduation?

Edited April 11, 2012 by Bat_mipt

[Spore]

Bat_mipt, I see you are writing from Moscow!

This situation is a common one no matter where you choose to go to school.

Often, students will buy second-hand furniture (look at Craig's List). Other students purchase furniture (Target, Ikea or other pricier stores).

Once you are ready to graduate you can resell your furniture to someone new who is starting school (a conveyor belt of furniture).

There may be furnished apartments in the area which would obviously solve your problem.

[dazedandbemused]

I'm curious if anyone has information about Lobos Management. I've heard from a variety of sources to stay as far away from them as possible because of how horrible and unmaintained their properties are, but I keep coming across listings from them for absolutely beautiful apartments. Is it possible they've changed their ways? Or am I just being fooled by the paint over the moldy walls trick?

[NaK]

Hi everyone,

I am an international student and going to Pittsburgh at the Pitt for a PhD. I know I have left my search for an apartment too late and most of the nice places (Shadyside/ Sq Hill) are gone , Can anyone tell me how is Penn Commons, area wise, specifically with regard to safety and accessibility (by Bus) to the Pitt? I am still on the look out for decent roommates in Shadyside.

[dazedandbemused]

Someone may have asked/answered this question earlier, but does anyone have any particular knowledge of Bloomfield? I've heard that it's nice but I'm wondering what kind of things there are to do there; it doesn't seem like there's an area that's really alive the way Murray Ave. is in Squirrel Hill. Any thoughts?

[estargrl88]

I happen to live in Bloomfield and think it's is a pretty nice place to live. It is aesthetically much different from Squirrel Hill (lots of rowhouses, fewer trees) but there's still a main street on Liberty Ave. Grocery stores are convenient, there are good restaurants, a bar/live music stage, cafe, thrift stores, and various other stores. I think the location is great because it's also really close to Lawrenceville and the Penn Ave. Arts quarter, as well as Shadyside, Oakland, and East Liberty. There might not be as much as in Squirrel Hill, but it's all what you're interested in. One of the main weaknesses is that there aren't really any big parks nearby, which Squirrel Hill does have.

[truuky]

Momoms,

 

Pittsburgh has repeatedly topped the list of America's most livable cities(http://www.forbes.com/2010/04/29/cities-livable-pittsburgh-lifestyle-real-estate-top-ten-jobs-crime-income.html).  It is also one of the cheapest places to live.  The city is a melting pot of cultures and is packed with endless activities.  The region gets all four seasons, ranging in temperature from high 90s during the middle of summer to low teens in the winter.

 

For more information, I would suggest visiting http://www.visitpittsburgh.com/relocation/

 

Living alone is definitely going to cost a significant amount.  I would expect a studio apartment to cost about $1000 per month.  If you pick up roommates you could pay as little as $400-$700 per month, depending on whether you live in a house or apartment.

 

Honestly, money is not a problem in Pittsburgh.  I believe most live quite comfortably on about 2000 per month.