Seattle, WA

[Usmivka]

Lived in Seattle for two, Helsinki (Finland) for one, Sunny State one, and rest, a tropical Asian country. Seattle has the worst weather, it's just endless drizzles and rain, I didn't even want to go out or anything. Transportation sucked according to my standards (compared to NYC, Helsinki, and said tropical Asian capitol), city is just bland, not a great place for foodies even though they claim to have great variety of food (yep, I said it), and generally a hipster town that claims to be really diverse but really doesn't, most importantly, I didn't have much friends from Seattle who weren't transplants (Canucks, out-of-state people, international students, etc). Seattle really has this breeze that is impenetrable, they kind of just let you do your stuff and carry on with the divide. Some say it's because the culture is a blend of Japanese and Scandinavianness, I would agree but Seattle seems to take it up a notch with the pretentiousness. UW campus is really beautiful, though.

While some of your criticism is valid, it isn't particularly useful for people who have decided to move there. I can only laugh that you prefer the weather in Helsinki to Seattle (it rains more in the summer in Helsinki, and freezing rain the rest of the year!) or anywhere in the tropics over Seattle (mugginess, monsoon season!), the public transit in any "sunny state," or the diversity of most Asian capitols--note, "different from you" and "diverse" are not at all the same thing, and even Singapore's much vaunted diversity is primarily South Asian culture, whereas at least Seattle has influences from Asia, the Middle East, Europe, North and South America, and North and South Africa, like any large American city (and more than many, if you include satellite cities like Bellevue, Federal Way, and Tacoma). It's easy to cherry pick the things that are wrong with any city, but Seattle has a lot going for it too.

 

I'm sorry you couldn't make friends, but I'm not sure you are placing the blame in the right place given that Seattle has a population of half a million. Maybe if you went out instead of holing up in your apartment hiding from drizzle ("I didn't even want to go out or anything"), you would have had better luck and met more interesting people. I can't imagine why you've applied to the UW if you find the area so offensive either.

Edited February 1, 2013 by Usmivka

[LeatherElbows]

A couple of questions ... How healthy is the current part-time job market, especially near U of Washington's campus? Also (and this may sound strange considering Seattle's weather), are there many apartments with balconies?

[Usmivka]

A couple of questions ... How healthy is the current part-time job market, especially near U of Washington's campus? Also (and this may sound strange considering Seattle's weather), are there many apartments with balconies?

What do you mean by healthy? It is good for employers, certainly, just like the area around any large undergrad population. Any particular type of work?

 

And I assume you mean Seattle's warm, dry summers and clement winters? I don't know how many times I have to convince people to look at a climatology for Seattle, it rains less than most big cities outside of the Southwest--it is classified as having a "Mediterranean" climate for a reason, and almost all the precipitation is concentrated in only a couple months of Fall.

 

Okay, vented, and on to your question--balconies are about as common as in any other city I've spent time in, 30-40% of units depending on the neighborhood. More common in big buildings or neighborhoods with lots of older housing stock. I lived in 5 apartments while in Seattle, 2 had balconies (and 1 had a veranda, which is the same difference to me).

[6tZSoKE3FTnq]

It's pretty easy to find a part time job near the U Dist. as long as you don't mind retail or food service. On campus jobs tend to pay min wage but are usually really great about working with your schedule each quarter and giving time off for breaks and finals week. I would take a look at craigslist. 

[ComposerX]

I've lived in Seattle for over six years now and I've tasted all of the neighborhoods. I may be a little on the picky side, but when it comes to convenience, tranquility, aesthetic beauty, and the quality of living here's the "block" that I've come up with: Capitol Hill, North of John St, South of Roanoke, East of Broadway, and West of 23rd Ave E. This area is, in my extremely selective opinion, the most ideal place to live in Seattle; whether you're a professional or a graduate student.

 

You can live in a calm/peaceful neighborhood, and be just a few blocks away from grocery stores, coffee shops, and a slew of dining options without a bunch of noise. From minimal amenities and sq. footage on up, a one bedroom apartment can range from $800 - $1,800 and a two bedroom is about $1,000 - $2,000. I have found some good deals since I've been here and have lived in some pretty decent places. Currently I live in a one bedroom (within that "block") for $1,375 a month - 800 sq. ft, balcony (which are hard to come by in this area), parking, and it's in good condition.

 

People around this area are very friendly and open-minded, but it doesn't matter if you're a social butterfly or a sociopath. The overall vibe is live and let live.

 

Even though most other neighborhoods in Seattle are cheaper to live in they tend be noisy/city-like, except for Queen Anne, but Queen Anne is about a 20-25 minute commute to UW and it's as expensive as Capitol HIll.

 

I hope this helps a little.

 

P.S. The Central District sucks.

[Kava]

I've lived in Seattle for over six years now and I've tasted all of the neighborhoods. I may be a little on the picky side, but when it comes to convenience, tranquility, aesthetic beauty, and the quality of living here's the "block" that I've come up with: Capitol Hill, North of John St, South of Roanoke, East of Broadway, and West of 23rd Ave E. This area is, in my extremely selective opinion, the most ideal place to live in Seattle; whether you're a professional or a graduate student.

 

You can live in a calm/peaceful neighborhood, and be just a few blocks away from grocery stores, coffee shops, and a slew of dining options without a bunch of noise. From minimal amenities and sq. footage on up, a one bedroom apartment can range from $800 - $1,800 and a two bedroom is about $1,000 - $2,000. I have found some good deals since I've been here and have lived in some pretty decent places. Currently I live in a one bedroom (within that "block") for $1,375 a month - 800 sq. ft, balcony (which are hard to come by in this area), parking, and it's in good condition.

 

People around this area are very friendly and open-minded, but it doesn't matter if you're a social butterfly or a sociopath. The overall vibe is live and let live.

 

Even though most other neighborhoods in Seattle are cheaper to live in they tend be noisy/city-like, except for Queen Anne, but Queen Anne is about a 20-25 minute commute to UW and it's as expensive as Capitol HIll.

 

I hope this helps a little.

 

P.S. The Central District sucks.

 

How is the public transportation from Capitol Hill? Are the buses reliable/on time? I don't want to have a car, so taking the bus will be the way I'd like to go. I would also be putting late hours (until midnight maybe later) on campus. Are there buses that run this late? If not, does the university provide other options. For example, another school I'm considering has free or really cheap car service to drive you home if it is past when the buses are available - like a safe ride program.

[Usmivka]

How is the public transportation from Capitol Hill? Are the buses reliable/on time? I don't want to have a car, so taking the bus will be the way I'd like to go. I would also be putting late hours (until midnight maybe later) on campus. Are there buses that run this late? If not, does the university provide other options. For example, another school I'm considering has free or really cheap car service to drive you home if it is past when the buses are available - like a safe ride program.

Good. As reliable as any--schedules are conditional, and you may wait 15 minutes. You can bike. 2am-ish. Not any more.

 

I do think Phinney Ridge, Wallingford, and northern Ballard are quieter and cheaper than much of Cap Hill, but I've never found an apartment in the particular area specified by ComposerX that was within my price range. If I had, I'd live there in a heartbeat.

Edited February 27, 2013 by Usmivka

[stillalivetui]

For those calling the Central District out:

 

I understand the stigma you have against the neighborhood, but I still disapprove of the automatic "ghetto" attitude you guys put on it. I don't know if you've been here recently, but the Central District has improved and continues to. The housing (many of which were already beautiful old fashioned housing before) is being remodeled to contemporary standards or being rebuilt into modern styled town homes.

 

I hate how you all just automatically point this out to be some sort of trash neighborhood that is not worthy of consideration. Queen Anne? U District? Please, I'd rather safe a buck and live here knowing I'm surrounded by a diverse community (not to mention take a 7 minute walk to the best bar scene on CAPITOL HILL). Gasp, I may live next to African-American's who "potentially" deal drugs. Get real and out of your comfort zone people. I live right by Ezell's Chicken, and I can say I have not experienced any single problem living in my household for the past two years. So, I don't know what area you are all referring to, but my experience here has been great. Just ask a band named the Cave Singers. 

 

Again, I am extremely disappointed in the attitudes of those quickly judging the CD. And I already know that just to boost your intellectual ego you'll pull up all these fancy statistics

Edited March 1, 2013 by stillalivetui

[Usmivka]

On 3/1/2013 at 3:59 AM, stillalivetui said:

 And I already know that just to boost your intellectual ego you'll pull up all these fancy statistics

Already did above. The point was that the concerns voiced by others aren't unfounded. Also, if you bothered to read the posts of many above, you'd notice that they were written by people with long familiarity with Seattle and the Central District (ie more than your 2 years)--you can disagree with opinions, but dismissing them as the product of "quick judgements" and misinformation isn't productive.

 

And as already stated, the major issue with encouraging students from out of town and no familiarity with Seattle to live in the CD with an all positives, no problems attitude is that they 1. don't necessarily know what they are getting into, and 2. it drives away the diversity you enjoy so much through gentrification (particularly the tearing down of those nice old homes and replacement with trendy townhomes bought with out of town wealth).

 

Oh, and 3. the subpar public transit to more or less anywhere.

Edited March 3, 2013 by Usmivka

[stillalivetui]

I've lived in the Central District for five years now (and I've also lived in Ballard and Wedgewood). I was referring to my current household to where I've lived two years in. I think I have a pretty good idea of what I'm talking about, and the reputation you have of this neighborhood. This isn't South Central LA, and trust me, I was born and raised there. So the Central District is nothing comparable to that. 

 

And I'm extremely confused about the subpar transit you're referring to. I find it pretty reliable to downtown and the U District, as it's a straight shoot with no transfers.

Edited March 5, 2013 by stillalivetui

[Usmivka]

And I'm extremely confused about the subpar transit you're referring to. I find it pretty reliable to downtown and the U District, as it's a straight shoot with no transfers.

On the 49, see above--not a reliable bus compared to most routes int he city. I'm not trying to convince you it is a bad neighborhood--clearly it isn't for you. But just as clearly several posters (including myself) feel it is not the best choice for those moving to Seattle as grad students. I've been trying to explain (for the benefit of interested forum readers) why the above opinions and concerns shouldn't be dismissed out of hand and aren't the product ignorance or narrowmindedness, which is what you have implied with your responses. Every neighborhood has things to love and issues of concern, and posters aren't being spiteful of you or dismissive of the neighborhood in pointing out that the CD has more concerns than many of the other neighborhoods discussed here. I don't think it really matters much how it compares to LA, or anywhere else outside of the communities that people here are considering living in. I'm not going to keep harping on this--I've said my piece, and I hope you understand where I'm coming from, and perhaps where others are as well.

 

PS. I spent much of my childhood in the CD, including living and working there for a number of years.

[ComposerX]

I agree with Usmivka on the quieter parts of Seattle, however, there are quiet parts of Capitol Hill. I think Kava would be more interested in Capitol Hill because of the convenience. The problems with Phinney, Ballard, and Wallingford is that grocery stores and dining/night-life could potentially be a far walk if you're looking to live in a quiet area, whereas in Capitol Hill (15th Ave) you can live relatively close to said establishments and still dwell in a quiet area. Capitol Hill, specifically the south part of it, is centered around night-life and it can be very noisy. Also, the 49 is a 15 minute commute to the University and it runs until 1:30 am or so every night (a little later on the weekends), and it is pretty reliable; sure it might be 5 minutes late, but it comes very frequently (about every 15 minutes). 

 

The intent of my initial post was to point out some of the great features of Capitol Hill and not give specifics on other neighborhoods. I would say that it would be good for you, Kava, to give us an idea of the kind of neighborhood or lifestyle that appeals to you most, and then we could offer more appropriate suggestions.

[Policy_wonk]

Hi there!

 

I'm considering UW and looking to relocate to Seattle. Thank you for all your suggestions. Here are my questions:

 

• What are areas to stay away from? 
• What are the real estate "scams" that go on? (In my hometown people renting places will say all types of things that are just not true and any local living there would know).

I think that's it for now. Any other information is always helpful. 

[skybythelight]

Hi guys,

I wanted to try and revive this thread as I've decided to attend UW in the fall for an MA/PhD program.

My main concern right now is housing. My boyfriend and I will be driving across the country, and are planning on leaving on 9/1 and arriving in Seattle around the 9th or 10th. Right now my tentative plan is to try and find a rental for 9/1, and we just wouldn't be moving in exactly on the first. The other option would be to leave towards the end of August and plan on arriving in Seattle on or closer to September 1st, but there are a few things I would miss here at home that are pulling me in the direction of wanting to stay here til the end of August.

Anyway, do any of you locals have any thoughts on that? When is the best time to start looking for housing?

Also, does anyone have any experience with obtaining an apartment from across the country, without actually seeing it first? I have a few friends out there and I'm hoping one of them may be willing and able to look at a place or two for us, but that isn't guaranteed just yet.

[fishasaurus]

My boyfriend and I will be driving across the country, and are planning on leaving on 9/1 and arriving in Seattle around the 9th or 10th. Right now my tentative plan is to try and find a rental for 9/1, and we just wouldn't be moving in exactly on the first.

 

Finding housing in Seattle has always been a nightmare for me. With very few exceptions, places I've been interested in have rented before I even had a chance to view them. Places I have viewed get signed for before I have a chance to ask for the paperwork. Every time I have needed to move, simply calling places/emailing places takes days before I get a response. Things might be easier for you if you don't have a tight budget like I have every time I've moved, but finding an apartment, even in city, is almost a full-time job. I have never rented from a distance (although I'll have to do that this summer to get to my new school...) but if you are comfortable renting sight-unseen, it might be easier. If you do this, DO NOT rent from anything other than a complex. There are quite a few buildings with private owners, and they are hard to tell apart from scammers who post fake ads and ask for the rent to be wire-transferred. If you know anybody in Seattle who could check out an apartment for you (just to make sure it exists), that would be better than just crossing your fingers for when you get here.

 

If you want a less stressful move, you may want to look into campus-owned graduate housing. There are a few complexes that look nice and renting through the university will be much easier than going with an outside place. 

[eponine997]

I lived in Seattle for 7ish years, in various housing arrangements.  If living with a significant other you won't be able to live together in campus housing, and honestly, campus-owned grad housing is overpriced.  The only time housing was problematic for me was when I was searching craigs list for people seeking roommates (who already had a lease/house). Northgate, Wedgewood and Maple Leaf are all pretty quite, inexpensive, have decent parking, and well-serviced by buses.  Lower Queen Anne, Greenwood, Phinney, Wallingford, Fremont and Ballard are great if you are looking for easier access to nightlife but the price typically goes up and parking availability goes down and buslines vary depending on where you are.  Capital Hill really depends on your personality as to whether or not you'll like it, good access to nightlife depending on your particular scene, it really does have something for almost everyone, but "something for everyone" might bring a crowd you don't like, also loud, limited parking - it's a love-it-or-hate-it kind of place.  

 

I would avoid the area directly west of campus (between campus and I-5) as most of those apartments cater to undergrads, burnouts who move to the Udistrict for the party scene.  The landlords/PMs don't take care of their tenants and often don't take care of the property because they know undergrads aren't picky and won't fight them for better conditions.  
Similarly, avoid the area directly north of campus if you are looking for a room to rent in a house (also, apartments in that area tend to be overpriced for what they are and highly populated with undergrads), similarly you deal with managers/owners who don't take care of their properties or tenants and drunk people wandering around after frat parties.  

 

The scams the previous poster described are probably common in every major city, avoid wiring money, get some sort of verification the place actually exists, etc.  

[6tZSoKE3FTnq]

One thing to think about doing if you're coming from out of town is to sublet for fall and then find a place in November or December. In the u district there are often sublets available from students who are studying abroad for a quarter. That way you'll be in town to look at places and according to a friend, rent is often cheapest for leases starting in the winter. Downsides are potentially having a crappy place at first and having to apartment hunt during finals and holidays. 

 

If you come out one month early in August you can also probably find a cheap sublet for a month to live while you apartment hunt. 

[MSDubbs]

Hey all. I'll be coming up from Portland and am trying to start planning my move. Anyone have any opinions about whether or not it would make a difference if I chose to move in July or August? I've heard that it's hard to find places in August...Is july any better? 

 

I'm hoping to find a place to live that is within busing distance from the university, but I don't want to be too close, since I'll have a car and also would rather not be in the heart of the undergrad scene.

 

Thanks for any advice!

[Logorrhea224]

I'm just going by what I've seen in online housing ads, but you might consider subletting something for July and August- there are a ton of students going away for the summer who are looking for people to sublet right now. Then you could go out in July and look for something more permanent that starts in September. From what I've seen, there's not that much out there right now that starts in August, but that could change later on. Again, this is only what I've observed from looking at several different online housing listings. I'm also planning on arriving in Seattle late July/early August, so I'd welcome any advice anyone has.

[arrowgirlie]

I'm hoping that my plan to move in late August works out. I have a lease down here in Southern California until August 25th, and lots of family stuff happening. I wanted to be in Fairmont, but I think I've decided that I'm just going to go for an apartment in the Northgate/Wedgewood/Maple Leaf area mentioned by eponine. It didn't feel as quirky and fun as some of the other neighborhoods when I visited, but the complexes looked okay. I'll have a car if the bus commute gets too long. 

A note: Obviously, I've had no experience with this, but a current 2nd year in my program told me that she had a tough time finding housing in December after her sublet ended. Maybe call a few places and find out how much movement they typically see in the winter before committing to a sublet for autumn quarter? 

 

I'm trying to stay excited about my move, instead of stressing about it, but it's hard. If any of you find the secret, let me know.

[turambar85]

Seattle is decently pet friendly, but not as much as you would hope (or expect, given the tendencies of the city itself).  You will find a solid number of apartment complexes that are reasonably "pet friendly", but you will have better luck sticking to condos.  My partner and I have lived in three buildings since moving here in 2011, and two of those have been condos (for the pet reason alone). 

[Kermit]

Condos can be pricy but Seattle is one of the more expensive cities to live in. I lived there last year and found some cat friendly places, although I mainly lived on Cap Hill. I preferred being in Capitol Hill because there are lots of parks and it is easy to bike to the university but far away from all the undergrads/frats and nicer places.

SoDo is also quite hip. It really depends on what you want. Green lake area too can be nice.

 

If you want a fun day trip here are some ideas:

1. Rent a bike, there are great paths along the water (Burke-Gilman Trail). You can ride it from the uni to gasworks park. Also just down the street from the park is a great bar called Brouwer's Café that has a ridiculous amount of tap beer.

 

2. Aquarium on the water downtown

 

3. The Pine Box, my favourite bar in Seattle. It's a converted mausoleum and really beautiful, plus they have good  pizza.

 

4.Volunteer Park, it's really nice if it is sunny! Have lunch and take a nap.

 

5. Seattle Bouldering Project. It's the largest freestyle climbing gym. I love it even though I'm horrible, and the people there are super nice if it is your first time.

 

Also don't waste time/money on the EMP. SO BORING.

[bathingintheneon]

Has anyone heard about grad students applying for low income housing in Seattle? I heard a rumor that a few grad students did this and managed to live in pretty nice places for low rent. How would one even go about this process?

[perpetuavix]

On 3/6/2014 at 1:40 PM, bathingintheneon said:

Has anyone heard about grad students applying for low income housing in Seattle? I heard a rumor that a few grad students did this and managed to live in pretty nice places for low rent. How would one even go about this process?

I saw a few apartment ads that mentioned income restrictions, so clearly there is low/medium income housing available. A quick google brought me here: http://www.seattlehousing.org/housing/ 

You can fill out a form there to indicate your interest, but there's a waiting list for housing. I have no knowledge about Seattle's wait list for housing, but I know in NYC the lists can be very, very long. It might not work out, but now is probably the time to get on the list. 

[whitegummy]

After reading this thread I'm leaning towards Cap Hill for my first year, for the convenience and just to get a feel of the city. What is the longest commute via bus I can expect, with very heavy traffic? What direction is traffic usually in the morning and evenings (from/to UW)?