question for bicyclists

[spectastic]

you need two layers of glue on the rim and one layer of glue on the tubular, with 24 hours of curing time in between, and then a final layer when you put the two together. That's how you get even distribution. You can try to short cut it by doing one layer each, but that still takes two days for curing to take place. You can do tape, but I've heard that ruins your rim, and the bonding is nearly as secure... I want to feel safe when I'm cornering doing 25..

[Eigen]

I used to do tubulars with an old roommate of mine who rode them exclusively- they're a far smoother ride, and while you can't just flat out change them on the side of the road, they're (a) safe to ride flat to semi flat, and ( you can repair them without replacing them. 

 

It's not like a tube that bursts and is done- it's like a car flat that you can put some sealant in and repair, or plug the leak and keep riding. 

 

In fact, most of the things that would cause you to get a flat on a tubed tire (ie, pinch flat) don't happen at all on tubulars. You can't get a pinch flat at all. Pretty much all that will cause a flat tire is shredding it on road trash. 

[spectastic]

pinch flats can be easily mitigated by running high psi. thats why I run 115+ even on 25 tires, and put baby powder each time I put on a tube to make sure nothing's caught. most of my flats are caused by debris cutting my tire, which I can later remove and patch up. some of these gashes are like 1/4", whch you cant patch up with the sealant, or can only be accessed from the inside (like wires). you must encounter those every once in a while. and I never throw away tubes.. all of mine have at least 2 patches on it, some proly as many as 4 or 5. I have around 6 tubes in rotation, and they wont be retiring until they're at least 15 patches in, or until we colonize Mars. but clinchers are what I know, and I think they require less maintenance. ymmv

[overworkedta]

I always run max PSI because I worry about pinches.  I wish my boyfriend (king of the pinch flats) would listen.  He's only just now starting to.

 

However, mine had this tiny shard I couldn't find in them causing slow leaks as of last week.  It took me and two wrenches to find it but that was what was causing it.  It made me go batty because I thought I was getting pinches on my brand new x-check.

[MadtownJacket]

Isn't Seattle one of the top ten cities in America for cyclists?  I'd be surprised if there aren't solid bike paths all over town.

[BikeOrange]

 

The roughness you're experience could also be related to the frame, though. Different frames have different stiffness and the more square geometry of a track bike (versus the more compact geometry popular on road bikes and mountain bikes) is going to have an impact. I'd also agree that the saddle makes a huge difference. Find one that fits well and is reasonably firm. I love the shape of mine but I think it's a bit too soft on longer rides.

 

 

Frame material is definitely important. Steel will absorb impacts from riding over cracks much better. My guess is most cracks in the road will not harm the cromo frames that are popular today, you will just feel the vibration through your bike. I don't think you are damaging your bike unless you hit a really large pothole. 

[spectastic]

I just saw that the domestic pro that won my age based road race at the state championships placed 11th on the Tour California Stage 1. Damn son.

[Scarf in the wind]

A question for bicyclists, for someone who never learned how to ride a bicycle, how difficult is it for an adult to start learning?

[spectastic]

about as difficult as learning to ride a bicycle

[33andathirdRPM]

A question for bicyclists, for someone who never learned how to ride a bicycle, how difficult is it for an adult to start learning?

 

Find a beater bike and a large parking lot. Bring a couple of friends to hold you up while you go slowly on the bike to get used to the feeling of it.

 

You are going to fall. Accept that fact now, and use the falls as lessons.

 

After a few sessions with friends, you should be able to handle practicing alone in the parking lot. Practice taking off, stopping, etc. Do not ride on the street or around pedestrians until you are comfortable with maneuvers.

[spectastic]

just make sure the brakes work and the drive train isn't all rusted up. my dad bought a couple of crappy mountain bikes from the school warehouse for like $20 each while I was in high school, it got me around until some asshole stole it. craigslist is another place.

 

 

oh and as a last resort.. but you probably won't be needing this. training wheels are for bitches

Edited May 30, 2014 by spectastic

[S_Colorado]

I'm moving to Boulder, CO and everyone bikes there! I come from a land of beach cruisers and I'm fairly intimidated by bikes that have multiple gears and riding in the street. Luckily Boulder has a ton of bike paths and seems to be fairly flat except for one large hill.

 

I found this article http://flatironbike.com/2010/11/08/winterbike-workshop/ on riding in the winter in Boulder which seemed to answer lots of questions I had about how on earth I'm going to manage winter if I live within 2 miles of campus since walking or taking a car seems ridiculous. 

 

My questions are the more basic ones that aren't answered in that article. What do I need to look for when buying a new or used bike? How much can I reasonably expect to pay for a bike I want to use to commute to a from school (a total of 5 miles a day maybe)? Is a bike shop the best place to start?

 

Thank you for any information you have.

[spectastic]

I wish I were accepted to Boulder. I don't think boulder gets hardly any snow anyway, with so many mountains around. you'll be fine as long as you have wind blockers.

 

I'm assuming you're looking for a road bike. used vintage on craigslist is the way to go. things to look for:

1. right sized frame

2. well maintained (smooth and well lubed drive train, smooth cables)

3. comfortable

 

and with Boulder being one of the cycling capitals, you should be able to find one within a week. don't worry about pricing, if it meets the criteria mechanically, the bike is probably priced right too. And it'll be easy to compare with other listings. bring your bike to a good local bike shop.. they're usually happy to show you the ropes.. I like smaller shops because the bigger ones are more business-y, and I hate business. 

 

 

 

what I mean by business-y is that a mechanic at a big shop will always charge you money. on the other hand, a mechanic at a smaller shop is usually more approachable, and if you come in often enough, they'll do small things like derailleur tune ups and stuff for you for free. 

Edited May 30, 2014 by spectastic

[bubba]

I'd suggest hanging out at the local bike kitchen and learning how to do that stuff yourself, if you have the time, of course. It also helps you connect to the local community/find friends.