Norfolk, VA

[BlueSwedeShoes]

Anyone who has lived in or near Norfolk that wouldn't mind sharing their opinions?

How's the feel, the entertainment, the public transportation, the nature, the people, the housings...you know, all that a (foreign) prospective grad student would like to know

[Medievalmaniac]

I grew up in Williamsburg, just about a 30 minute drive down the interstate from Norfolk.

One of the best things about the area is its proximity to the beach - you're about half an hour from Virginia Beach, traffic depending.

Honestly, the traffic in Norfolk can be horrible - it is often at gridlock during rush hours, especially if there is an accident. You would definitely want to avoid picking class times that would correspond to peak driving hours (8-9 a.m., 3-6 p.m.) or, you would want to be on or near campus already by that point. The good news is that the college is right off of the main road (Hampton Boulevard) and therefore as long as the traffic is flowing it is VERY easy to get to the interstate and all major attractions, shopping, and so forth from there.

The area by ODU (I'm assuming that's the school you are asking about?) is lovely, and if you can live close to campus it is very walkable. Norfolk has a good diversity in terms of population, and is fairly safe as a city...on campus, this translates mostly to petty crime/ theft of personal items, bicycles, laptops, etc. Definitely no more than any other college campus anywhere. The crime rate in Norfolk was very high when I was a child, with several murders (mainly, these were drug-related), but I can tell you for certain that this has improved dramatically and that the law enforcement services are very good, very solid.

Norfolk has a GREAT nightlife because of its proximity to Hampton, Virginia Beach, Williamsburg and even (1.5 hours) Richmond Virginia. There is a wonderful arts program for professional theatre, ballet, opera. Lots of nightclubs, especially near the beach. You will not be lacking in chances to "go out and play" or to shop for pretty much whatever floats your boat. There are also some top restaurants, and if you love seafood.....OH, yeeeaaaaaahhhhhhhh....! ;op

The proximity to other universities is also great for research purposes - ODU is in easy driving distance of Christopher Newport University, The College of William and Mary, Virginia Commonwealth University, University of Richmond, and several other smaller schools and community colleges.

Probably the best part of Norfolk is the number of cultural opportunities, especially in terms of history, available there. Museums, especially the Mariner's (seafaring) Museum, Colonial Williamsburg, Yorktown Battlefield, Jamestown Settlement - most of the country's history started here, and it's VERY accessible when you live there.

It IS a city, so cost of living/ house and apartment rentals can be expensive....I think the average is between $650 and $1000 a month. THERE ARE ALWAYS CHEAPER ONES AVAILABLE...but they are NOT always advertised. You'll have to do your homework, ask around and talk to other students. Because of drugs, unemployment, etc. etc., a lot of locals have rental properties that they don't advertise except through word of mouth because of legal requirements. (If you publicly list a property, then who ever shows up with the deposit and first month's rent can rent it...and may or may not ever pay you another month's rent, but rather can squat until you force him/her out.) Also, because of youth and drug related issues, owners are wary of damage that can be done to their properties. If you show up and find these people through word of mouth, you can usually find a nice place for not too much money. Alternately, you can live a bit away in Suffolk or in Newport News and just commute an extra twenty minutes. There are definitely options.

Let me know if there's anything else you want to know. I love my hometown, and am happy to talk about it and its environs ad nauseam if you are interested!!

[Lantern]

I lived on a sailboat that was based in Norfolk about 4 years ago. I didn't have a car, so I was mostly limited to places I could get by foot or bicycle. That said, I really enjoyed Norfolk! We were docked right downtown, and there's a nice little strip (Granby Street) that is just lined with restaurants and bars. In the warmer months, several of the restaurants have outside seating on the sidewalk which I always thought was nice and unexpected for Norfolk. There's also a similiar street called Colley Avenue in Ghent, which is a walkable distance from downtown.

My favorite thing about Norfolk was the eccentric little places you could find after looking around for a bit. I feel funny mentioning names, I don't want anyone to think I am affiliated with a certain business (I'm not), but there is a really nice coffee shop, diner, book store, drive-in restaurant (where you will be instantly transported to an earlier decade and you can sit in your car while the waitresses come out to take your order and deliver your food), and a few other places like that. You'll just have to do a little exploring to find them!

There's also a nice "Heritage Trail" where you can walk or jog along the waterfront, and a really neat war memorial right at the corner of the park in town. It has letters written by men in wars going far back into history up until today. The letters are reproduced on large bronze "letters" that look like they were left to blow around in the wind. Not something that would normally merit a mention from me, but I thought it was really neat.

And, when you get tired of Norfolk, you can hop on a ferry and cross the river for $2 and be in Portsmouth. I have two favorite sites in Portsmouth: one is a really unique movie theater, where you can sit at a table and order food, beer, and wine via a telephone during the movie. The second is a German Beer Garden bar/restaurant with some of the most knowledgable bartenders I've ever bought beer from!

I know these small details may not answer all of your questions, but it sums up my view of Norfolk as a pretty neat place. If you do end up there, enjoy!

[BlueSwedeShoes]

Thanks guys, much appreciated. And yes, it's ODU I'm considering.

Is the presence of the navy base very noticeable? I mean, it is the worlds largest after all

[Medievalmaniac]

Well, you'll definitely see a lot of folks in uniforms! It's not just the naval base down there - you've also got Langley Air Force Base and Fort Eustis, the Army transportation corps training school. But I loved that, too (Daddy was a soldier! ) But no, I wouldn't see that as a negative at all. The military boys (and girls!) certainly go out to play at night, but they also generally make it safer to be out playing, if you know what I mean.

[expressionista]

I've never lived in Norfolk, only visited (several times though), so I'm totally not an expert and haven't seen everything it has to offer, but I'm personally not a big fan of it. I feel like the military presence is very strong, and in general, I just don't think it's a very pretty city. I like a few small neighborhoods or individual streets (places I think previous posters have mentioned), but I feel like the city overall has an industrial/military feel. I see you've been accepted to NCSU and are applying to UCSD- I've lived in both of those cities, and I like them both about five million times more than Norfolk. That being said, I still like Norfolk more than plenty of other cities too. No offense to Norfolk fans, but I just wanted to give my alternate opinion.

[Medievalmaniac]

I've never lived in Norfolk, only visited (several times though), so I'm totally not an expert and haven't seen everything it has to offer, but I'm personally not a big fan of it. I feel like the military presence is very strong, and in general, I just don't think it's a very pretty city. I like a few small neighborhoods or individual streets (places I think previous posters have mentioned), but I feel like the city overall has an industrial/military feel. I see you've been accepted to NCSU and are applying to UCSD- I've lived in both of those cities, and I like them both about five million times more than Norfolk. That being said, I still like Norfolk more than plenty of other cities too. No offense to Norfolk fans, but I just wanted to give my alternate opinion.

No, Expressionista, you're right about that, much of Norfolk definitely does feel industrial and military...but the area by ODU and down by the waterfront where the shops and restaurants are is not too bad, and you can always get away to really beautiful places on the weekend.

[asha]

I've lived in Williamsburg and Virginia Beach. Norfolk has a small city feel. There is probably a lot you can walk to downtown, and there has been a concerted effort to make the Granby Street area safer at night - more lighting, more police, etc. However, there are some really bad neighborhoods that I don't like to go to if I can help it. Public transportation exists in the form of buses, but getting to the beach or to Williamsburg/Hampton is a nightmare by bus. I would recommend having a car, if possible. The beach is nice, but I feel like it drives up the cost of living in the area. The navy is definitely a big part of the city, for better or worse.

[BlueSwedeShoes]

I was in the air force myself (Swedish, not US), and I'm currently doing my masters at the Swedish Defence Research Agency so I'm not averse to military presence.

Expressionista, could you tell me more about NCSU/Raleigh? As you correctly noticed, I've applied all over the place, and been accepted/recommended for three places so far. Problem is I haven't lived in or near any of them (I'm a foreigner!). Maybe I need to start a thread about Raleigh and another one about Orlando...

Anyway, to keep this thread on Norfolk; How's nature, climate and the environment in Norfolk? Any good walking trails nearby? Beaches? (Medievalmaniac, you mentioned Virginia Beach, care to elaborate?)

[Medievalmaniac]

We go to Raleigh every other weekend or so....Raleigh is a much bigger city than Norfolk and things are much more spread out in Raleigh - you would need a car to live there comfortably, although there is public transit (bussing, mainly). It's a BEAUTIFUL city in many respects, and again, a lot of culture and arts. Raleigh is GREAT for young families also because there are a lot of child-oriented places, such as children's museums and playspaces. It is definitely more expensive to live there than it is to live in Norfolk, IMO. Because of Research Park, there are a lot of new homes available, but they are very pricy.

The climate in Norfolk is midatlantic and coastal. There's usually a lot of rain in hurricane season (about April - September/October) but not usually all-day rain, often just passing showers or intermittent rain. A couple of good thunderstorms a year. Hardly EVER snow, but if it does snow even the tiniest amount, the whole place shuts down, they are NOT equipped to handle snow (which means ODU would be closed too, don't worry! lol). Temps in the winters usually in the 30s-40s, with temps in the summers hovering at the high 80s most of the time. You do get all four seasons clearly delineated, which is nice. Extremely temperate in spring and fall, 60s-70s; a long super-hot spell in October ("Indian Summer" of usually about a week and a half to two weeks, followed by colder November weather, and lots of cold rain in the winter some years - other years, hardly any.

In the city itself, there's not much nature, a few parks, etc. But there are a lot of nice recreational parks in the Norfolk/Hampton Roads/Portsmouth/Newport News area, lots of wooded areas and campsites.

Virginia Beach is nice, decent waves, they have a surfing competition there early on in the summer - but it is DEFINITELY a tourist location - packed, packed, packed during the on season, May - September, and parking SUCKS. It's GREAT to hit the beach in the off season, though, because it really does become a ghost town. We used to take our dogs there. You can't during the season, but off season you can just let them run and play.

[expressionista]

Expressionista, could you tell me more about NCSU/Raleigh? As you correctly noticed, I've applied all over the place, and been accepted/recommended for three places so far. Problem is I haven't lived in or near any of them (I'm a foreigner!). Maybe I need to start a thread about Raleigh and another one about Orlando...

I agree with most of what Medievalmaniac said about Raleigh, although I don't necessarily think it has a higher cost of living than Norfolk. Well, maybe compared to Norfolk it's high, but most people seem to think Raleigh's cost of living is very low (I see it on a lot of low cost of living lists). 3 years ago, I paid $585 a month for a nice one bedroom apartment. I could have paid less in an older development. I love Raleigh, and I've also applied to NCSU. It can be a very spread out area because it has grown so much in the past 30 years so the suburbs have really grown outward in all directions, but the NC State area is in the old part of the city ("inside the beltline"), which is more compact. I love all of the pretty trees in Raleigh (this sounds kind of silly, but they really do just have tons of beautiful trees there), and I really like its size- not as big as Atlanta or the DC area, but big enough to still have plenty of good restaurants and shopping. It's a great area for college and graduate students too because there are so many colleges and universities in the area. If you end up going to school there and/or have any more questions, feel free to send me a message.

[asha]

Virginia Beach is a weird "city" because it is the size of a county, but it doesn't really have a city center. Norfolk is kind of the "downtown" for people in Virginia Beach, if that makes sense. The resort area of Virginia Beach is about 20 minutes from Norfolk, very touristy, and parking is indeed a nightmare in the summer. There is a very nice boardwalk which also has a bike path - it's three miles long I think, and there are places to rent bikes down there. That is probably my favorite thing about the resort area. Most locals don't go to the beach at the resort area during the summer. Virginia Beach is geographically huge, so there are several other beach options - there is literally miles and miles of sandy beach.

In addition, Norfolk and Virgina Beach are on the Chesapeake Bay, which has quieter beaches and boating/fishing. The proximity of the bay and ocean mean that good seafood abounds. Also, it's probably worth noting that Norfolk & Virgina Beach are definitely in the South, which can be a culture shock. Also, the summers can get very hot and humid, but almost everything is air conditioned. Coming from Sweden, winters will seem mild.

After living away from the area and coming back, the things that strike me about it is just how flat it is and how spread out everything is. Another negative for me is that you can't use a bike to get around because there are virtually no bike lanes and drivers aren't used to seeing bikes. The positives include the amount of water, between the bay, the tidal rivers, and the ocean, you are never far from beautiful water views. The wildlife - it is mostly birds like osprey, pelicans, bald eagles, etc. There are several large parks around like First Landing State Park, but the walks there are kind of boring to me. There is also Backbay refuge, which is nice for kayaking or birdwatching. The mountains are about a 3 hour drive away. The nearest big cities are Washington DC, about four hours away, or Raleigh-Durham which is about 3.5 hours away.

I have to admit that I left the area at 19 and have only come back (to Williamsburg) for school purposes. Although I will always miss the water and the bay, I just don't like flat suburbia! If I could afford to live in one of the cute neighborhoods in Norfolk, I might feel differently about the area.

[BlueSwedeShoes]

In addition, Norfolk and Virgina Beach are on the Chesapeake Bay, which has quieter beaches and boating/fishing. The proximity of the bay and ocean mean that good seafood abounds. Also, it's probably worth noting that Norfolk & Virgina Beach are definitely in the South, which can be a culture shock. Also, the summers can get very hot and humid, but almost everything is air conditioned. Coming from Sweden, winters will seem mild.

After living away from the area and coming back, the things that strike me about it is just how flat it is and how spread out everything is. Another negative for me is that you can't use a bike to get around because there are virtually no bike lanes and drivers aren't used to seeing bikes.

That saddens me, I'm very fond of my bike and bike everywhere (I've never owned a car, but I guess I would look into getting one if I move to the states...when in Rome and all that). Also, it would be nice to live in a temperate climate and bike...this morning it was -19C (-2F) when I biked to the university, last Friday the hadn't plowed the bike lane and it was pretty rough biking in the 7-8" of snow that had accumulated during the night, more where snow plows had thrown snow onto the bike lane.

[heu mihi]

I've lived in Virginia Beach pretty much my whole life, and even went to college in Williamsburg which is about an hour away. I go to Norfolk often, since I hate VB and it's the only thing to do around here. I like Norfolk, but there's only a small section of Norfolk worth spending time in. Luckily for you, that's the Downtown and Ghent areas, which are close to ODU. I think you could probably bike if you wanted to, though a car would be more convenient. If I were you, I'd look for an apt in West Ghent. It's a beautiful neighborhood, full of old houses, right near the water, and there are tons of restaurants and things to do. Colley Avenue and 21st st. are the areas where the most action is. Here you'll find the Naro, a restored theatre that shows indie films, a used record store, a bunch of ethnic restaurants (I can recommend some if you're interested), and a grocery store that could easily be walked/biked to. The downtown area is nice too, but tends to be more upscale. There's MacArthur Center, which is the best mall in the area, the Norva, which is a live music venue, and lots of restaurants that tend to be a bit more upscale. There's also a great used book store (Bibliophile on W Bute St.). I think you could easily bike downtown from Ghent, and there are a lot of really beautiful areas down by the water to spend an afternoon. The weather around here is really nice; it gets hot in the summer, but the air blowing in off the water cools it down a little, and the winters are very temperate. Usually (though this year has been unusually cold), the coldest it gets in the winter is about 40. This means you can walk or bike to class year round without freezing.

If you want to venture outside of this area of Norfolk, go to Virginia Beach perhaps, you'll need a car. Public transportation around here is terrible. But if you do get a car, I can definitely recommend some places in VB too.

[BionicKris]

I lived in the Norfolk area for about 4 years when my father was stationed at Langley AFB. I'd say that the Hampton Roads area (Norfolk included) is a pretty decent place to live. I'm a beach bum at heart so the proximity to VA Beach is a big perk in my opinion. The military presence in the area is obviously noticeable but not terribly so. I would definitely suggest a car, but only because my experience with public transportation in the area was not great. Be prepared to deal with bridges on a daily basis. I have a phobia of driving over bridges, especially at night, so if this is something you'd have a problem with definitely take it into consideration when deciding. If you like historical places, Williamsburg isn't too far from Norfolk and it's also home to Busch Gardens. King's Dominion is also terribly far away (out towards Richmond). Hope this helps.

[alexis]

I grew up in Williamsburg (shout out to folks on here from the burg/went to W&M!), and now when I go home I wish the things that are there now were there when I lived there- New Town is awesome and the number of restaurants and shopping has really increased. It's a pretty good area with a decent amount to do (though can't compare to a proper big city). But in most locations in the Hampton Roads area, you would want a car to get around.

My dad lives in Norfolk, and I will say that you do not want to live in Williamsburg and commute to Norfolk/VA Beach or vice versa. The Hampton Roads Bridge tunnel is TERRIBLE. The trip is fine for an evening or weekend night, but not very good when commuting, you will crawl through traffic. So I'd recommend staying generally on whatever side of the water your school is on.

[pea-jay]

I grew up in Williamsburg (shout out to folks on here from the burg/went to W&M!), and now when I go home I wish the things that are there now were there when I lived there- New Town is awesome and the number of restaurants and shopping has really increased. It's a pretty good area with a decent amount to do (though can't compare to a proper big city). But in most locations in the Hampton Roads area, you would want a car to get around.

My dad lives in Norfolk, and I will say that you do not want to live in Williamsburg and commute to Norfolk/VA Beach or vice versa. The Hampton Roads Bridge tunnel is TERRIBLE. The trip is fine for an evening or weekend night, but not very good when commuting, you will crawl through traffic. So I'd recommend staying generally on whatever side of the water your school is on.

Four years in the Tidewater taught me the fewer bridge/tunnels you have to cross, the better. I remember sitting 2 and half hours parked out on the middle of the HRBT bridge portion while they extracted a truck from the NB tube.

[sam619]

I grew up in the Norfolk/Va Beach area and you should know the public transportation is abysmal. You will have to have a car if you plan on going anywhere out of walking distance. If you live in the downtown/ghent area, you will be able to walk to some of the amenities you need (restaurants, bars) but most likely you will need a car to go anywhere else. The Hampton Roads area is not really conducive to public transportation (it is mostly suburban and too spread out). What bus system there is, is poorly planned, not very widespread, and poorly maintained. They are currently building a light rail system that will service downtown Norfolk and parts of Virginia Beach but it is far from completed and is more designed for commuting to and from downtown not within the downtown Norfolk area.

Driving in Hampton Roads is not as bad as many natives say. It has a lot of bottlenecks (tunnels and bridges) so during peak/rush hour times it can be unbearable (it once took me 2 hours to get through the Hampton Roads Bridge Tunnel at 4 in the afternoon. Who commutes at 4 in the afternoon?!). But the drivers are not as insane as many other cities so driving is safer. And parking is fairly easy to find, most of the time for free. Using a bike to get around the downtown area is feasible.

In terms of the military presence, it is obviously a big part of the population in the area but it isn't a detriment, in my opinion. You will see a lot of people in uniform. The military is just an omnipresent part of the area that eventually you don't even think of as unusual.

The nightlife in the area is what you make it. There are some great restaurants and bars in Norfolk and Ghent (which has a more Indie vibe). I would suggest avoiding the clubs on the Oceanfront in Va Beach (lots of barely legals and sailors on leave), but that is just my personal preference. The arts and entertainment options are great. Norfolk gets a large amount of touring bands, shows, and comedians (I saw John Stewart there this fall). The outdoor opportunities are also great (as mentioned previously the beach, Back Bay, Seashore State Park, etc.).

Hope all that helps.

[BlueSwedeShoes]

Great advice and information so far, thanks people. Also, it is not decided and certain that I will be moving to Norfolk come fall.

So where should I look for housing? Someone mentioned Ghent, are there any other nice areas, or some that I really want to stay away from?

[pea-jay]

Great advice and information so far, thanks people. Also, it is not decided and certain that I will be moving to Norfolk come fall.

So where should I look for housing? Someone mentioned Ghent, are there any other nice areas, or some that I really want to stay away from?

If you are considering ODU there really is only a handful of areas worth considering:

* The areas immediately to the north, south or east of the university from W. 50th to W 40th or so and over to Colley. (+) Relatively cheap, college oriented. (-)Kinda noisy and aside from newer units, somewhat run-down.

* Ghent. (+) nice neighborhoods, walkable, with services, lots of character (-) a little pricey and requires a short commute to campus. It is close enough to bike and served by a bus line that runs by campus if you dont want to drive/pay parking

* Larchmont. (+) quiet mostly residential family neighborhood north of campus, easy access to campus on foot or by bike. Many places have water views (-) can be pricey, no convenient shopping opportunities like Ghent. Portions of Larchmont are also prone to flooding.

Stick to those areas and you can't go wrong.

[ILuvPsych2013]

Hi everybody!

I was wondering if anyone has been through or knows anything about the Industrial/Organizational Psychology Ph.D program at ODU. Any feedback on the program, ODU, or the area in general? I am married with two small children, so I am looking for a place to live that is relatively inexpensive and safe.

Thanks!

[crazygirl2012]

Thanks for the info, everyone! I'm a lesbian applying to ODU. Does anyone think I'll have to deal with discrimination and/or ostracism in Norfolk? I know it can happen anywhere, but I'd like to get an idea of the general attitude toward LGBT people in the area.

[IO guy-o]

I see this has not been updated in a while, and I am wondering a few things about Norfolk and the ODU area: has the outlook on biking improved at all (bike lanes, paths, or increased presence)? Also, have the previously mentioned "good neighborhoods" remained so, or have things changed or deteriorated?

 

Thanks!

[AuDorBust]

Biking is still a poor idea. Getting around by car is still the best choice, and a general awful experiance a couple times a week. Traffic is really bad due to the bases and the system of bridge-tunnels. One area that WAS really bad that is seeing revitalization is Oceanview.

[tanlines]

Anything new to add for Norfolk? ODU is one of my top choices and I'm wondering what the area is like.